Any new restaurants he opened, success or failure, would belong to him. He pored over the maps at night, reviewed them again in the morning, and then took off to find his new city. One day, the store half done, he found himself unable to get out of bed. “There’s been a shooting. Jonathan Gold called the chicken “superb,” and nothing in heaven or on earth compared with the garlic paste. He saw the courtroom in Van Nuys and the prosecutor making the tiniest of blunders. All day long the same movement, his right hand stuffing wads of money into his left shirt pocket and pulling out the change. Two packs of cigarettes a day had turned her voice husky, and her whole manner had the weight of weariness. Doctors prescribed pills, but he wouldn’t take them. Here was a whole bound guide of maps that divided up the sprawl of Southern California into perfect little squares with numbers that corresponded to pages inside. He had been blaring Bob Marley for two days, ever since his mother had given him the boot. Steve pleaded guilty to a lesser crime, did a year of work furlough, and was let go. On a big black stove, 20 stainless steel pots filled with garbanzo beans—next week’s hummus—bubbled on the fire. How could Steve ever be expected to build a new Zankou in his father’s name, without ever owning up to what his father had done? Flames shot up from the maid’s bedroom downstairs. He was going to fight it, he said, but if he died, he wanted them to know this: His sons—Dikran, 25, Steve, 23, Ara, 18, and Vartkes, 17—would be taking over his Zankous. His mother sat stone-faced. Steve knew the back streets of Los Angeles every bit as well as his father. He wanted to believe in the message. Now Steve wasn’t sure what to do. One was for food, the other for philanthropy. As soon as it began turning a profit, he found a spot in Van Nuys for Zankou no. In Los Angeles, Strip Mall Food Is Way Cool", "Palestinian Chicken Conflict: Only in Curb Your Enthusiasm or Is It Real? And the father was a cash machine. “Dad wanted us brothers to love each other and always support each other no matter what. She had died with her apron on. After the deaths, they had met and consoled each other, and Rita continued to make gestures of reconciliation. She didn’t ask what kind of cancer he had or what kind of prognosis the doctors had given him. Steve gave chase down a freeway, and shots were fired at the pimp and the prostitute, hitting their car. “No, Dad,” he shouted. He could feel the pain down below growing worse. A life-size photo of Mardiros, mustache drooping, middle-aged body thick in a suit, handsome still, kept watch on her. He was now wearing a dark brown jacket with gray pants. A giant map of Los Angeles, lifted from the pages of a Thomas Guide, shouted a welcome to customers. What more did a young girl want?”. His attorney, Mark Geragos, objected, and the judge declared a mistrial. It didn’t hurt, though, bro. He turned away and walked a dozen paces to the leather couch in the living room. Falcon. Jan 24, 2018 - Zankou Chicken’s legendary Garlic Sauce is served with this Brown Rice Pilaf Bowl. He had no reason to suspect that a dispute over rent with an Armenian tenant, a man connected to a political party, would turn violent. No one was more lost than Steve himself . Fate. So did Mexican gangbangers and nurses from Kaiser Permanente and the flock from L. Ron Hubbard’s church, who methodically polished off their plates of chicken shawarma, hummus, and pickled turnips and returned to their e-meters with a clearness that only Margrit’s paste could bring. Everything for him.” Her English was broken by the backward phrasing and accent of a woman who carried Syria and Lebanon in her past. On the drive home, he had to forgive himself for allowing his mind, at such a moment, to consider the family business. Did he manage to live his life never knowing the peculiar bent of his patrimony? “Let’s sit crooked and talk straight,” the old Armenian ladies clucked. One thing was certain. As he walked down the stairs and said good-bye to Rita, he had no intention of going to Zankou Chicken to see an old friend. I love their garlic spread, turnips and humus I can literally eat that every day.My usual order is a chicken … The grape fields all around him were in winter slumber, and he felt his mind begin to race. He parked his car and walked up the driveway past the koi pond in the entrance and knocked on the door. Blood dripped off their knives, down a gutter, and into a drain. Among Armenians and beyond, people were awed by his generosity in the same way they had admired his father’s. Steve was the one whom friends called when they were nearing bottom and needed a push into rehab. Then one evening in 1979, the war struck home. “I believe we can open a Zankou in every major city in America. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. Law 1 seemed easy enough: “Never Outshine the Master.” He was having more difficulty with Law 15: “Crush Your Enemy Totally.” It didn’t occur to him that the tape, like his favorite movie, Scarface, was so over-the-top that another listener might find it comical. It gets cooked on a rotisserie which, in my experience, can normally dry out chicken… A detective halted him short . Not knowing that a friend was one of the three robbers, Mardiros let him use his apartment. “My aunt was totally provoking me the whole way,” he said. [2] Vartkes Iskenderian died in 1992. Or would his son know the story because Steve had chosen to tell it from his own mouth? Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. Title: Zankou Chicken Menu Author: Zankou Chicken Subject: Menu Created Date: 9/4/2019 3:57:20 PM She filed suit, and the matter went to trial. His treatments had caused a buildup of fluid on his brain, and he was thinking all kinds of crazy thoughts. 27 Cal. He and Rita drove a Jaguar and a black Mercedes-Benz. From balcony to balcony, she spied on him. They sent to the ovens 48,000 pounds of Foster Farms roasters and fryers each week, 2.5 million pounds a year. On January 14, 2003, after a heated argument, Zankou Chicken owner Mardiros Iskenderian shot and killed his sister, Dzovig Marjik, and his mother Margarit Iskenderian; he then took his own life in a double-murder suicide. The hole-in-the-wall was raking in $2 million a year, half of it pure profit. For me, he was the most beautiful guy in the world. Fifty years later, at the church picnic, the old ladies sitting in their lawn chairs pointed to a boy standing in the shish kebab line. Daily Goals. Up the hill, where the canyon oaks gave way to palm trees, neighbors had spilled out of their million-dollar estates. Ingredients: Our Kabobs are available in Tri-Tip, Chicken, and Lule, and are marinated for a long time in This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Then she walked downstairs to her bedroom to let the three of them—mother, son, and daughter—talk. Mardiros might have taken it upon himself to ask what crime he had committed to deserve such treatment. Leave town? In return, he would sign over his stake in Hollywood to his parents and two sisters. It’s better than ever.”. The ingredients were simple and fresh, Mardiros pledged, no shortcuts. A New National Geographic Series Goes Inside the World of L.A.’s Pimps and Their Prey, What We Know So Far About the LAPD’s Dramatic Cost-Cutting Measures, Inside the Santa Monica Police Department’s Botched Response to May’s Looting Spree. Not food or drink or sex. 2, 3, 4, and 5. She got her money’s worth. Instead, as she put down her demitasse of Turkish coffee, she blurted out in Armenian: “Your sons. “Rita,” he shouted from a back room. Something terrible, he knew, afflicted him. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Who would take it over now that his father and grandmother, the heart and soul of Zankou Chicken, were gone? Zankou Chicken is a small, family-owned chain of Armenian and Mediterranean fast casual restaurants within the Los Angeles area. Carole Published November 17, 2020. By the time Steve got home, the lemonade still icy, his father was gone. He and Rita were stuck on the balcony, choking on smoke, when firefighters finally rescued them. No, haven’t you heard the talk about the Pepsi company offering the family $30 million for the Zankou chain and trademark? His Angels Flight pants touched so low to the ground you couldn’t tell if he was wearing shoes or not. He was looking for the right business in the right location and wasn’t in any particular hurry. His testimony ended up sending the trio to prison, and from that day on, alert to revenge, he carried two pistols wherever he went. A gang of six, they climbed the hills, rode bikes, played video games. Serving Size : 1 TBS. Picked Turnips, 1 half tray of Rice, 4 Pita Packs … He hadn’t gone to their funerals. “Please don’t shoot.” He fired once into her chest, and she staggered backward, falling flat and faceup on the floor. He kept driving through the California farm fields until he reached Fresno. It didn’t occur to Rita that her mother-in-law might be miffed about Mardiros’s desire for his sons to take over the business. He was the son most like Mardiros. How did they make the chicken so tender and juicy? She managed a pair of Zankous for Mardiros and had taken on the chore of caring for their mother. He was feeling much better now, and besides, he was only going to Zankou Chicken to see an old friend. Bins brimmed with tahini, the sesame seed paste, and mutabbal, the smooth, creamy roasted eggplant dip, and tourshe, the long, thin slices of pickled purple turnips. For three months, they kept their relationship hidden, until a nosy Armenian neighbor saw her riding in his car and told her mother. A day or so later, as it happened, the house caught fire. He stuffed a 9mm handgun into his waistband and a .38-caliber revolver into his coat pocket and walked step by small step down the stairs. As it turned out, the prosecutor made a small blunder during the trial, telling the jury about a prior crime that Steve did not commit . Only now, after losing so much weight, could he wear it again. The pasha. The first Zankou Chicken … As he looked around the room, he could see his 23-year-old nephew, Hagop, trembling halfway up the stairs. zankou chicken recipes with photo and preparation instructions. From Hollywood to Anaheim, he had opened a chain of fast-food rotisserie chicken restaurants that dazzled the food critics and turned customers into a cult. I know I really can’t do that unless I have power.”. She had her cell phone at the ready in case her sons needed to reach her—to discuss business or some difficulty in their lives. I live in SF now and just sit here in my apartment thinking about how good Zankous is. Walk on eggshells? I met him when I was 12. At your Aunt Dzovig’s.”, “He took the car. But during probate, she received a letter from lawyers representing Dzovig’s two sons. He said he was going to Zankou. The new restaurants would be owned by Mardiros, while the original Sunset and Normandie store would be owned by his parents and two sisters. They had come with plenty of cash. He loved Dzovig’s two boys as he loved his own, and he knew she felt the same way about his sons. The restaurants are especially known for their spit-roasted chicken, shawarma, falafel, tahini, and a "secret" garlic sauce. He told her not to worry. She said she learned that day that there were no words to read. Together, they had grown the chain by adding a store in West L.A. and one in Burbank, the fanciest of the bunch. He watched her punish his father with the guilt of indebtedness. “You wouldn’t know it, but underneath these pounds I used to catch a lot of ladies.”, He was sure he was paying a price for all that softness. Power’s crucial foundation is the ability to master your emotions…. But what it meant to be Mardiros Iskenderian’s son had changed irrevocably that day . [2] This included Armenian and Lebanese compatriots who fled Lebanon during the civil war. And I didn’t hurt her. “Before we married, he told me, ‘I am going to live with my parents my whole life. They shared a two-bedroom walk-up in the crowded Armenian quarter of Bourj Hamoud with his parents, his two sisters, and his mother’s mother, a survivor of the Armenian genocide. He reached into the closet for his .38-caliber revolver and stuck it into his coat pocket. His younger brother Ara, whose addiction to Vicodin had morphed into an addiction to exercise, thanks in part to Steve, tried to work him back into shape. Because he was a man who gave all his soul. He picked a tiny place next to a Laundromat on the corner of Sunset and Normandie—could there have been an uglier minimall in all of Hollywood?— and erected a sign with block letters in blue and red. Then came Zankou no. My mother’s been awesome. Get a place of his own? Her pasha. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. But then the lawyers marched in, and a war between the two sides broke out. They threatened to return to Beirut. I never really looked at it like that before. Then she opened the family scrapbook to a page from Beirut, the year 1975, and she began to narrate. “It was a drive-thru before there were drive-thrus,” recalled Garo Dekirmendjian, a Beiruti Armenian who befriended the family. “Bro,” he said , eyes twinkling. He had gone to the 777 Motel in Sherman Oaks on a winter night in 2000 to meet a call girl. Tooling from Glendale to Hollywood, cranking the wheel from freeway to road, he could tell his Global Positioning System a thing or two about the best way to get there. You know?”, “I slapped her on the hand. “It’s a shame that a man of this value has left behind this thing. They poured its profits into rental properties throughout the city. He’d take his telescope and look up at the stars and then look back down at the twinkling lights of Los Angeles. “These Thomas brothers. The survivors had streamed into Beirut by the thousands and formed a new Armenia in the “Paris of the Middle East.” They built 60 Armenian schools and published ten Armenian-language newspapers and held sway far beyond their number. She was paying $15,000 a month in rent for a restaurant with no opening in sight. As his sons, we can never let money or outsiders tear us apart. Pour a light layer of oil onto garlic. The photo and threw it away put down her zankou chicken ingredients of Turkish coffee, she blurted out Armenian... To ask the question of whether design or chance had prevailed that day that there were drive-thrus, one... Grape fields all around him were in winter slumber, and entered the kitchen... 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The only reason I go to Zankou his judgment in 1991 the family scrapbook to a menu filled with beans—next!